2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

1 cup diced celery

1 large leek, diced

Salt and pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon paprika

1⁄2 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 bay leaf

1 thyme sprig

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut in 1-inch chunks

1 pound medium beets, peeled and cut in 1-inch chunks

1⁄2 pound medium carrots, peeled and cut in 1-inch chunks

3 cups chopped kale

1 tablespoon apple-cider vinegar, or to taste

Put olive oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

When oil is hot, add onion, celery and leek, stir to coat, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring, until onion has softened and just begun to brown. Add garlic, tomato paste, paprika, caraway, bay leaf and thyme, and cook for 1 minute, stirring.

Add potatoes, beets and carrots, 6 cups water and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a brisk simmer. Simmer with lid ajar for 20 minutes, or until potatoes, beets and carrots are fork tender.

Add kale and vinegar, and stir to distribute. Taste broth and adjust seasoning. Simmer until kale is done, about 8 minutes.

Horseradish Cream:

2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

Pinch of granulated sugar

1 cup crème fraîche or thick sour cream

Dill, parsley, tarragon and chives, for garnish

Put horseradish, lemon juice, salt and sugar in a small bowl. Let macerate 5 minutes, then stir in crème fraîche.

To serve, ladle into soup bowls, and garnish with chopped dill, parsley, tarragon and chives. Pass the horseradish cream at the table.

David Tanis

New York Times